Brass and Classic Motorworks LLC

Brass and Classic Motorworks LLC One of the most complete restoration shops you will ever find under one roof. By appointment only.

Lesson on Carburetor vacuum leaks.. How many times have you struggled with trying to get your car to run well and everyt...
09/22/2021

Lesson on Carburetor vacuum leaks..

How many times have you struggled with trying to get your car to run well and everything points to the carburetor as being a problem. Once you pinpoint that the carb is the problem often times you struggle with trying to rebuild it and then find that the problem is still there or worse. Buying a new or rebuilt carb(s) can be rather costly so this may not be an option. So you may ask yourself what is the problem and how do I fix it.. The problem often times is due to vacuum leaks at the butterfly shafts. So what can you do to fix the vacuum leaks? Let me shed some light on this for you.

I often get requests to fix carbs with vacuum leaks due to worn butterfly shafts or the shaft holes being worn excessively causing excessive vacuum leaks. These vacuum leaks can affect performance greatly. Often times a carb is disassembled and a rebuild kit is installed. After the carb is cleaned, rebuilt and reassembled vacuum leaks become evident or more evident. The reason the vacuum leaks become more evident is that the shafts or bores have worn and there is a varnish that builds up on the shaft or in the bore which takes up some of the wear slop. Cleaning the carb during the rebuild process removes this varnish making the shaft to bore fit looser and the vacuum leaks become more pronounced and obvious.

Given the multitude of carb designs there isn't one standard fix that applies to all. Each carb design may require special tooling and machinery, machining knowledge and skill, coupled with a comprehensive understanding of how each carb design works in order to find the optimal solution to the problems identified.

Often times multiple types of repairs are required for the same carb. In this example the carb was machined for a special seals on two of the butterfly shafts. And for the third butterfly shaft the housing was line bored and brass sleeves were machined to fit.

You may question why seals were used on two shafts and sleeves were used on the other shaft. In this case the shaft bores were very close to the carb mating surface and there wasn't enough material to allow for installing sleeves. I could have machined the bores a few thousandths larger and then machined new butterfly shafts to fit but due to the design of the butterfly shafts this would have been a very costly repair. Machining the carb for seals was the optimal and most cost effective solution here.

Another question you may have is why did I use brass for the sleeves. The number one reason for using brass is thermal expansion and secondly it wears similar to the aluminum or zinc die cast carb bodies. Brass expands at a very similar rate as aluminum or zinc die cast does which helps to prevent the butterfly shafts from seizing in the brass sleeve when the carb heats up. Also note that for many carbs the butterfly shafts are made out of brass or plated steel. For each type of butterfly shaft material different shaft to bore clearances are required to prevent shaft to bore seizing.

For cast iron carb bases a completely different set of machining steps and techniques need to be applied. Cast iron expands at a different rate than aluminum, zinc die cast, or brass. So sleeving a cast iron carb base is done differently. (As a side note, brass valve guides should never be used in cast iron heads for this reason. Cast iron expands quicker than brass and the valve guides will be compressed and eventually will become loose in the heads and or cause valve stem to guide seizures or both.)

Hopefully this gives you some idea about how carb vacuum leaks are often times a problem and a high level understanding of how some of the common types of carbs are fixed. Feel free to contact me if you need assistance with your carburetor issues. This post will also be available on my other page, see Brass and Classic Motorworks LLC.

Machine shop and other services:With all that I do its often hard finding time to update my profile with new posts so it...
07/19/2021

Machine shop and other services:
With all that I do its often hard finding time to update my profile with new posts so its about time for an update. Many of you know that I offer complete restoration services, engine and machines shop services, fabrication welding, etc.. but most do not know to what extent and or what that really means. So I thought I would show a few examples of some of the machine shop work that I do to get started. Please note that these are just a few examples and I will add more examples later in future posts. The following pictures illustrate some of what I offer in the lines of machining and design services.

Many of the pictures included with this post were done from a basic concept and or no drawings at all. And given I restore very early cars and motorcycles I often have to design the parts from scratch or from photographs where available. For some of these parts the client supplied the basic design requirements and I did the rest using my extensive design and machining background, using CAD/CAM, and all were machined in house.

Some of the industries serviced include: automotive, motorcycles, medical and surgical tooling and components, bicycle manufacturers, printing, bakery, and numerous other manufacturing sectors. I also build custom tooling and equipment for use in the manufacturing of parts. My services also include full R&D services from concept to production. And also note that I recently added plasma cutting and 3D printing to the list.

After taking a look please feel free to get in contact with me for any needs you may have. And note that I can work from a napkin sketch, a concept, 2D or 3D drawings, etc and help you bring your project to fruition.

Another local shop called on a Saturday afternoon in a real panic. They just had this Allard painted and the paint shop ...
02/02/2020

Another local shop called on a Saturday afternoon in a real panic. They just had this Allard painted and the paint shop some how lost 2 of the 3 convertible top tie down hooks. So they asked me if I could machine 2 new ones by Sunday (the next day) because they were loading the car up for a show in the afternoon.. They stated that price was not an object.. I told them the only issue was the fact that the original ones were cast aluminum and chrome plated. I told them the best I could do is make them out of stainless steel and polish them and that I would have them ready by Sunday AM. Needless to say they said do it. Out of professional courtesy I did not charge them a premium and only charged them the normal shop rate.. They picked the parts up early Sunday AM and were so happy with the work and the price they gave me a $100 tip. I was just happy that I could help them out.. I hate to see anyone in a bind..

This client brought in the water pump and components, the roller lifters for repairs, and some other parts to be machine...
02/02/2020

This client brought in the water pump and components, the roller lifters for repairs, and some other parts to be machined
The water pump needed a new stainless steel main shaft machined, the housing bored parallel to the body and new bushings made, a new distributor drive hub and careful fitting.

The roller lifters needed new rollers and pins machined and heat treated. They also needed the adjuster faces to be surface ground flat and smooth.

He also requested that the twin cylinder jugs castings be sanded, filled and painted gloss black.

The client wanted to have a brass clock bracket formed that matched the speedometer bracket. The bracket was formed out ...
02/02/2020

The client wanted to have a brass clock bracket formed that matched the speedometer bracket. The bracket was formed out of .093" thick brass sheet.
The front suspension was also needing repairs and the I Beam needed the king-bolt holes honed round and true. New king-bolts and castle nuts were machined and heat treated. He also needed some special nuts machined and heat treated. All work was done in house.

Another one of the numerous Jaguar restorations completed. The pictures show some of the major work completed. This car ...
02/02/2020

Another one of the numerous Jaguar restorations completed. The pictures show some of the major work completed. This car was a racer that was crashed and repaired with less than safe repairs. The frame took the brunt of the damage and was scabbed back together after the wreck. Upon inspection of the frame I found that it was twisted in several directions and the main frame rails were like washboards on the surface and like an accordion along its full length.This must have been one horrific crash to say the least ! As you can see the previous repairs were done to mask some of the damage but in an unsafe manner. Given this is a numbers matching car and the fact that the frames are numbered as well this frame was repaired. I built a fixture to literally pull each frame rail back to their original length and then made the necessary repairs. When the frame was done it was square and parallel in all directions. Upon completing the frame repairs the body rust and accident damage was then taken care of. The firewall area was twisted and the body was in need of serious repair. Another fixture was built to twist the body to realign the front clip. The body repairs include removing and replacing the rockers, door shut plates, aluminum door hinge faces, battery boxes, and forming a new decklid skin and inner wood frame. The aluminum bonnet needed considerable repairs to straighten it and to fix all the cracks. Extensive rust repairs were also made. As you can see from the door gaps the body aligns perfectly.

Restored from a rust bucket to a show quality classic.  As you can see from the pictures the body was a rusted mess with...
02/02/2020

Restored from a rust bucket to a show quality classic. As you can see from the pictures the body was a rusted mess with considerable damage. Some of the major work done included cutting the car in half and replacing both rocker panels, removing and replacing both door shut plates, removing and replacing both aluminum door hinge faces, hand forming new headlight buckets, forming new lower rear fender sections, sand blasting the body and giving this beauty a show quality paint job. All work was completed in house.

Just finished setting up a Chevy 10 bolt rearend that need a gear ratio change on.. This is for a 1939 Plymouth restomod...
08/17/2019

Just finished setting up a Chevy 10 bolt rearend that need a gear ratio change on.. This is for a 1939 Plymouth restomod I am in the process of rebuilding and undoing another shops major screwups on. This shop went bankrupt and based on the quality of work I can see why.... scary to say the least. As soon as I am done with this great project I will be putting up a detailed breakdown on the build, rebuild and all the things that were done wrong and without regard to safety. In the mean time I just wanted to share some technical info about rear end setup..

Guys... if you are going to install a different rear end in a car please take the time to do the computations on the engine rpm's at a given cruising speed and be realistic. To do that you will need the rear tire diameter, transmission OD/final gear ratio and use a realistic cruising rpm of say 2000rpm at 70 mph, then you can play around and come up with a real ring and pinion gear ratio to use. And as an FYI there are lots of online calculators to help you with the numbers if you aren't a math wiz... In this case the shop put in this rearend and the calculated cruising speed at 2000 rpm would have been 107 mph. Duhhhh... On what planet will we be able to cruise at that speed.. (Please let me know... I am a speed ju**ie... lol) Mind you this car has a brand new GM 6.0 L96 and 4L65e trans so its will be a good cruiser.. but not at that speed. So I changed out the ring and pinion and put in all new bearings and seals. (I also narrowed the rearend and used a custom set of axles for this application. I narrowed it so that standard offset wheels could be used instead of custom offset wheels..)

I attached a few pictures of the gear set in its final configuration to show both the backlash and contact areas under acceleration and deceleration. The manufacturer recommended .008" - .012" backlash for street use. I set it up with .0085" backlash. As you can see from the paint on the gears the contact areas are just about optimal in the sweet spot.

I will begin posting comprehensive technical breakdowns of various and common things as time allows. So please keep an eye out for the write ups.. And please ask any questions you may have about this topic or any others.

The first two pictures show the backlash and the next two pictures show the contact areas under acceleration and deceleration.

I was contacted by the owner of this fine example of an early Packard and he asked me to come to his house to talk for 3...
02/10/2019

I was contacted by the owner of this fine example of an early Packard and he asked me to come to his house to talk for 30 minutes to an hour about this project. He had heard of my work and wanted to get to know me to see if I was the kind of person he could trust to do the extensive list of work needed to be done. After a 6 hour interview he commissioned me to do a laundry list of work on the car. He had explained to me that he was getting to the point where he couldn't finish the restoration work on the car due to health issues. He also could no longer crank start the car. So after our initial meeting we put together a plan of attack which allowed him to be a part of the process.. this was very important to him because this was his baby and a labor of love ! The first two pictures are preparing the car to move it to my shop. The next 3 pictures relate to one aspect of the work to be done. He wanted to mount an electric starter which was not visible from anywhere on the car without taking the belly pan off. The other criteria was to build a starter mount that didn't require drilling any new holes in the frame. He would not allow any modifications to be made to any part of the car so only existing holes could be used. This was no small undertaking as their was very little room to mount the starter. The pictures are of the starter he wanted to use and a custom machined ring gear he had machined for the project. The next two pictures are of the car and motor. The next 5 pictures are of the massive flywheel and the ring gear being fit to the inside of the flywheel. The last 2 pictures are of the car right before I put the flywheel back on and then loading the car on the trailer.. As I stated this gentlemen had health issues and unfortunately while I was making all of the updates/repairs on the list his health took a turn for the worst and he passed away before all of the work was completed. (I had fabricated the starter mount and was ready to put everything together.) It goes without saying anyone who gets involved with their clients and do either long term projects or work on their babies that a strong bond is built with them. This is the case here... I had become a member of their family and attended the services and spoke about my new friend. His widow and I had also become good friends and I worked with her to put the car back together and prepare it for finding the just right buyer for the car. While this effort was under way her health became an issue. She had ignored her own health while taking care of her husband and by the time she saw a doctor he diagnosed her with a terminal illness and was given less than 2 months to live. God had called both of them home... It brings a tear to my eye while I write this.. They may have been my clients, but they are also my good friends.. And God do I miss them... All I can say is life is too short... so do all you can today because there may not be a tomorrow...

This is a very rare water pump and was acquired by the client as a basket case that needed to be completely rebuilt in o...
02/10/2019

This is a very rare water pump and was acquired by the client as a basket case that needed to be completely rebuilt in order to make it functional. None of the parts matched and all had to be hand fitted. The housing and cover plate were warped and had to be annealed and straightened prior to line boring them in preparation for new bearing bronze bushings. New 303 Stainless steel shafts were machined along with a new the idler shaft nut.The driven shaft was custom machined to account for having to bore the driven gear to remove the oxidation from the gear bore in order to make it concentric and inline with the shaft. New packing nuts were machined (manually and not on the CNC lathe) to allow for hand fitting them to account for the wear on the pump housing and cover threads. The packing nuts have both right hand and left hand internal threads. The housing and cover plate were fly cut to reduce the gear side clearance.

Address

112 Golden South Drive
Dallas, GA
30157

Telephone

+17703355138

Website

Alerts

Be the first to know and let us send you an email when Brass and Classic Motorworks LLC posts news and promotions. Your email address will not be used for any other purpose, and you can unsubscribe at any time.

Share