A & A Speed and Performance

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A & A Speed and Performance We are a an Automotive racing, performance, and customization shop. Domestic and Select Imports

This is an amazing picture, and we are glad to be the engine builder for the  . 1100+ HP ✔️Thousands of street miles ✔️D...
12/12/2024

This is an amazing picture, and we are glad to be the engine builder for the .

1100+ HP ✔️
Thousands of street miles ✔️
Drift ✔️
Drag ✔️

You can follow the antic of Jared M. Deitch and this mean street driven machine on Social Media.

In 2025 we plan to release crate engines and custom built engines as well as some other big announcements.

Stay Tuned!!

Aluminum fabrication for a supercharger coolant tank getting wrapped up and headed to powdercoat. Custom setup for a tig...
03/12/2024

Aluminum fabrication for a supercharger coolant tank getting wrapped up and headed to powdercoat. Custom setup for a tight location, and still maintaining a fair amount of volume.

Happy Holidays from A&A Speed and Performance! We are starting off by posting our first Holiday sale! A&A Custom Camshaf...
29/11/2024

Happy Holidays from A&A Speed and Performance!

We are starting off by posting our first Holiday sale!

A&A Custom Camshaft packages.
This is the parts kit only!

It includes everything you need to get your LS based engine set up!

This kit includes:
Custom Billet core camshaft ground by Comp
Comp cams Trunion upgrade kit
Comp Cams IWIS chain
Comp Cams pushrods
Melling Oil pump
BTR Valve Spring kit
GM ls9 Headgaskets
New GM lifters
Mahle replacement head bolts
New lifter guides
New camshaft retainer plate
New timing chain and water pump gaskets.

You can get the entire package for 2400! Including custom specing of the cam for your application.

This is everything you need to take your LS based engine to the next level!

This sale is good from now until midnight on Christmas Eve!!

21/10/2024

More Practical Tech!!

Intake valve springs and boost!

First, we need to explain a little about what a valve spring actually does.

Primarily a valve spring ensures the follower/lifter stays in contact with the lobe on the camshaft. (This is where open spring pressures matter)

Secondarily, it helps maintain the valve in its fixed point (Think of Valve spring seat pressure)

Now... Assuming this is a 4 stroke motor, the spring is assisted when the valve is closed and has cylinder pressure. The pressure in the cylinder pushes the valve harder against the seat.

Intake stroke the intake valve is open, and is controlled by the spring, and camshaft.

Compression stroke Valves are closed, piston travels upward. As the air mix compresses, this pressure helps keep the valve on the seat.

Combustion stroke Valves are closed, combustion pushes piston down bore, very high pressure pushing the bore against the seat.

Exhaust Stroke piston moves upward as exhaust valve is open.

While this is a simplification, it give you a good start.

We are going to focus on the exhaust stroke, and the intake stroke.

For a little detail here, there is overlap. This is when the intake valve opens, while the exhaust valve is open. This is done to assist in evacuating burned air/fuel, and to help with cylinder filling.

So before the exhaust valve closes, the intake valve opens. The cylinder pressure at this time is pretty low, and pressure has been released from the cylinder by the open exhaust valve.

Why is this so important for spring pressure on your boosted engine?

We will use a GM LSA for the example. Lets say you put the pulley, and air mods, and you are at 22 lbs of boost.

You cylinder head has a 2.165 intake valve.

On to the math:

Area= .25 x 3.14159 x Valve diameter squared.

so.. Lets square the valve diameter.

2.165 x 2.165 = 4.687225

Now we plug it into the formula
25 x3.14159 = .7853875
7853875 × 4.687225= 3.6813sq inches.

Now, you could reduce this by the area used by the valve stem, by calculating the area taken up by it, but with the valve also having an angle, it has slightly more surface area, so, it balances out more than enough for our example.

The factory valve springs have 90lbs of seat pressure. But they lose a bit of spring pressure over time from heat cycles and use.

So what does this all equate to?

Well... the 3.6813 sq inches on the back of that intake valve sees 22 psi of boost. So... your boost is putting 80.9 pounds of force on the back of valve trying to open it. That would leave the valve with 9.1 pounds of seat pressure once the exhast pressure is dropped. Now... the cam lobe starts to open the valve, and experiences only the 9.1 Pounds, and the valve starts too open, and "Bounces" open, with poor control. Further, the hydraulic cushion in the lifter doesn't pump oil immediately, and actually gives more as it starts to experience increased spring pressure as it opens, causing a dip in valve acceleration rate as the valve accelerates toward open. This increases spring harmonic resonance (Think bounching up and down the way a tuning fork shakes) causing poor valve control, and increased pressure flucuations throughout all of the valve train components. (Springs will generally always have some harmonic resonance, but spring, and lobe designs are engineered to minimize this for increased Power, and parts survival)

The harmonics cause the valve spring to violently bounce, and inaccurately follow the lobe. As the valve closes the intake valve has this same low spring pressure and resonance as it gets closer to closing. As it hits the seat, the resonance and lack of seat pressure can cause the intake valve to "Bounce" on the seat at closing.

This is an upset valvetrain. It will have reduced performance, increased wear. In extreme cases, the performance loss can be massive. The more RPM, the less time the springs get to stabilize and the impact spreads across more of the engines cycles, and can wind up with very little time when it operatates correctly. At 7000 RPM the intake valve will open and close 29 times per second. How much time can the spring resonate before the problem grows exponentally.

Again... incorrect part selection can make your upgrades have poor performance improvements, while impacting longevity of the engine.

Who wants to have less performance gain, and more broken stuff?

Make sure that you are getting a properly set up valvetrain by making sure you share your goals and intended future modifications and usage with your camshaft manufacturer/engine builder. Your satisfaction, wallet, builder and tuner will appreciate it!

Steven W Canton Hanging the hoops out in Idaho for the Halloween Classic! What a great picture!!
07/10/2024

Steven W Canton Hanging the hoops out in Idaho for the Halloween Classic! What a great picture!!

06/10/2024

Practical Tech info Saturday!!

This will be long, but hopefully helpful!

Lots of customers ask about this topic, so we are going to share some tech info.

Topic: Tire Size and Gearing

The two most common items here are "Cruise RPM" and Race gearing.

Cruise RPM.

It actually matters where/how you drive.

Cruising at 65, is different than cruising at 80.

So... if you have a 3 speed auto vs a 6 speed manual, this is going to change a lot.

Lets say you have a TH400. High gear is 1:1. but the GM T-56 high gear is .63:1 4th is 1:1, and 5th is .80:1.

If you are selecting gears, or thinking of making a tire size change on your truck, race car, hot rod, etc. this is for you.

If you have a say 30" Tire, and th400, and are trying to decide on your gear ratio, where do you want to cruise at RPM wise?

Say you decide around 2500 RPM is where you want to be, and you expect your average cruise speed to be 70.

Here is the math: (It works the same way for all of the calculations)

RPM ÷ Gear or gears = Axle RPM **
Axle RPM × Tire circumference = Inches/min.
Inches/min. ÷ 12 = Feet/min
Feet/min ÷ 5280 = Miles/min
Miles/min × 60 = MPH

** You can multiply your gear ratios ahead of time, and only have a single overall ratio for a specific gear configuration. (Say first gear and rear gear, but this won't work for second gear without recalculating)

Tire diameter x 3.1415926 will give you the circumference. For our example 30" it is 94.25" (rounded. Get this diameter from the tire manufacturer not just say "Its a 30" tire, because they round too on the sidewall)

So, take your 2500 rpm and divide by trans gear:

In the case of high gear on the TH400, you don't need to, as 1:1 (the T56 would be 2500 ÷ .63)

This calculation will give you driveshaft speed. (We will talk about convertor slip/clutch slip etc later)

Driveshaft speed is then divided by the rear gear ratio. Lets say 3.55.

2500 ÷ 3.55 for the TH400 which provides Axle RPM. In this case 704.225 Axle RPM.

Axle RPM x Tire circumference of the 30" tire we calculated earlier will give you inches of travel per minute.

704.225 x 94.25 = 66,373.21 Inches of travel per minute (rounded)

Now we need to turn inches per minute into MPH.

To do this, we take our Inches of travel ÷ 12 (turns it into feet of travel per minute)

Then ÷ by 5280 (Turns into miles per minute)

Them x 60 (Turns miles per minute into MPH)

This tells you that at 2500 RPM, you would actual only be at 62 MPH. So in this case a 3.23 gear ratio would better deliver your desired cruise RPM. giving you 69.79 mph.

Racing??

Well... if the car is lazy leaving despite having power and convertor, or you need to sort out your crossing RPM here is the math. (this can get complex with converyor, and maybe we will dive into this in another section)

Launch Ratio is your Launch gear ratio multiplied by your Rear gear ratio. (Some folks are leaving in second gear for various reasons that we don't need to get into right now)

So... TH400 2.48 first gear 4.30 rear gear your launch ratio is 2.48 x 4.30 this is a 10.664:1(Rounded) Launch Ratio.

Why is it 10.664? My friend Ben is from Missouri, so... He says "Show me"

1000 RPM ÷ 2.48= 403.226 Driveshaft RPM
403.226 ÷ 4.30= 93.7735 Axle RPM.

1000 RPM divided by 93.7735 = 10.664 (Rounded) So... that is your total gear.

Tire Circumference: 28x3.1415926 = 87.96 inches (yes there will be tire growth, and this varies depending on tire design, size, inflation, and speed. A 20 psi 28" Radial vs a 7 psi 36" Bias ply will be extremely different, but this is to get you closer, and if you are already running, you can calculate your errir factor based on using this math, and knowing your current information.)

So... if you run a 28×10.5, and a 8000 RPM shift point your top speed at the end of launch gear would be: 62.487 MPH.

The same car with a 27" Tire would be: 60.256 MPH. So, the engine would effectivlely experience a slightly lower gear (higher numerical) with the shorter tire.

So... You currently trap 126, on a 28×10.5 and want to increase crossing RPM? Let say you are interested in crossing at around 7200.

You will need a lower gear (Higher numerical) than you currently have.

Tire Circumference: 28x3.1415926 = 87.96 inches (yes there will be tire growth, and this varies depending on tire design, size, inflation, and speed. A 20 psi 28" Radial vs a 7 psi 36" Bias ply will be extremely different, but this is to get you closer, and if you are already running, you can calculate your error factor based on using this math, and knowing your current information.)

So... 7200 RPM and a 28 x 10.5 tire.

For ease we will do the TH400 again. with a 1:1 High gear.

A 4.30 gear would achieve 139.47 MPH so the 126 MPH would be down at around 6525 RPM.

As to where a 4.56 gear would have a top speed of 131.52 and the 126 MPH would now be at 6900 RPM.

But... what would the 70 MPH Cruise RPM be?

Well... you would be running through Traffic at 3850 RPM. Trust that this is great for a racecar, and terrible for your daily.

It is critically important that you are honest with yourself as to how you intend to use the vehicle, or you will wind up unhappy with the vehicle, and have spent money to make it unenjoyable. Regardless or who you have do your vehicle modifications, it being the way you want it is important, and if it is built based on an unrealistic estimation of how you use the vehicle, you will end up with exactly what yiu asked for, but not what you actually want. Both you and the builder will be disappointed.

Proud to announce we are a direct dealer for Mantic Clutch USA!! Mantic are some of the very best in the game, and we ar...
01/10/2024

Proud to announce we are a direct dealer for Mantic Clutch USA!! Mantic are some of the very best in the game, and we are excited to partner with them. They have a great line of products, great customer service, and stand behind what they build!!

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3615 Pacific Boulevard SW

Opening Hours

Monday 09:00 - 17:00
Tuesday 09:00 - 17:00
Wednesday 09:00 - 17:00
Thursday 09:00 - 17:00
Friday 09:00 - 17:00

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